Dr. Shuba Dharmana is one of India's leading cosmetic dermatologists and a pioneer in integrating genomic insights into skincare practice. We spoke with her about how genomics is transforming the way she approaches skin health — and what it means for patients seeking truly personalized care.
How Did You First Become Interested in Genomics for Skincare?
"I've always been frustrated by the trial-and-error nature of skincare," Dr. Dharmana explains. "A patient comes in with premature aging, and I'd recommend retinoids, antioxidants, sun protection — the standard toolkit. But why does one patient respond dramatically while another sees minimal improvement? The answer, I realized, is in their genes."
She began incorporating genetic testing into her practice several years ago and has seen it transform patient outcomes. "When I know a patient's collagen genetics, their UV sensitivity, their antioxidant capacity — I can build a truly personalized protocol rather than a generic one. The results are consistently better."
Which Genetic Insights Are Most Clinically Useful for Skin?
"Collagen genetics is probably the most actionable," she says. "Variants in MMP1 — the gene encoding the enzyme that breaks down collagen — tell me how aggressively a patient needs to protect and rebuild their collagen. High-MMP1-activity patients need to start retinoids earlier, be more rigorous about sun protection, and consider collagen-stimulating treatments like radiofrequency and microneedling sooner."
UV sensitivity genetics is equally important. "MC1R variants dramatically increase UV sensitivity and skin cancer risk. For patients with high-risk MC1R profiles, I'm very insistent about SPF 50+ daily, protective clothing, and annual skin checks. It's not optional for them — it's essential."
Skin barrier genetics — particularly filaggrin (FLG) variants — is transformative for patients with eczema and sensitive skin. "When I know a patient has FLG variants, I immediately shift to a barrier-first approach: ceramide-rich moisturizers, gentle cleansers, avoiding anything that disrupts the barrier. It explains why their skin behaves the way it does and gives them a clear framework for management."
What About Genomics for Anti-Aging Treatments?
"Genomics is helping me personalize anti-aging protocols in ways that weren't possible before," Dr. Dharmana says. "For example, patients with variants associated with higher oxidative stress benefit more from topical and oral antioxidants. Patients with variants associated with slower collagen synthesis benefit more from collagen-stimulating treatments and peptide-rich products."
She also discusses the role of pharmacogenomics in dermatology. "Some patients metabolize topical retinoids differently based on their CYP enzyme genetics. Understanding this helps me predict who will tolerate standard retinoid concentrations and who needs to start lower and go slower."
What Advice Do You Have for Patients Interested in Genomic Skincare?
"Start with a comprehensive genetic test that covers the key skin traits — collagen, UV sensitivity, barrier function, antioxidant capacity, pigmentation, and inflammation," she advises. "Then work with a dermatologist who understands how to translate those genetic insights into a practical skincare protocol. The genetics gives you the map; the dermatologist helps you navigate it."
She emphasizes that genetic insights should complement, not replace, clinical assessment. "Your genes set your predispositions, but your lifestyle, environment, and skincare habits determine the outcome. Genomics gives you the knowledge to make better choices — but you still have to make them."
Your Skin Is Genetically Unique — Your Routine Should Be Too
BeautyMap by MapmyGenome is India's first DNA-based skin and hair health test — revealing your genetic collagen profile, UV sensitivity, hydration needs, and skin condition risk so you can build a truly personalized skincare routine.
